Settings Breakdown
Full manual mode is essential for studio work. You control exposure entirely through aperture, ISO, and flash power — shutter speed only controls ambient light contribution.
Narrower apertures than natural light portraits because flash provides abundant light. f/8 gives sharp focus across the face with comfortable depth of field.
Stay at or below your camera's flash sync speed (typically 1/200 or 1/250). Going faster causes black bands from the shutter curtain.
With flash providing all the light, use your camera's native/base ISO for maximum image quality and dynamic range. No need for higher ISO in studio.
Flash is daylight-balanced around 5500K. Set WB to Flash preset for accurate skin tones, or use a gray card for precision.
Eye AF works well in studio with modeling lights. For stationary subjects, single-point AF on the near eye is perfectly reliable.
Pro Tips
Start with One Light
Master single-light setups before adding complexity. One softbox at 45° to the subject creates beautiful, classic portrait lighting (Rembrandt or loop).
Use a Light Meter
A handheld flash meter takes the guesswork out of exposure. Meter at the subject's face for your key light, then balance fill and hair lights from there.
Softbox Distance Matters
Closer softbox = softer light with faster falloff. Further softbox = harder light that wraps less. Move the light, not just the power setting.
Black Cards for Contrast
Black foam boards opposite your key light absorb spill and create deeper shadows. Great for dramatic, moody portraits with more contrast.
Hair Light for Separation
A small light from above/behind highlights hair edges and separates your subject from dark backgrounds. Use a grid or snoot to control spill.
Test Before the Session
Set up and test your lighting before the subject arrives. Have an assistant or yourself stand in so you can dial in settings and make adjustments.