Settings Breakdown
Cameras meter for 18% gray and underexpose bright snow to gray mush. Add positive exposure compensation to render snow as white, not dingy gray.
Snow in shadow appears blue. Shade or Cloudy WB adds warmth to counteract the blue cast. For golden hour snow, Daylight WB may be better.
Matrix metering evaluates the scene but still needs compensation for snow. Spot metering on mid-tones (bark, rocks) then recomposing also works.
Bright snow scenes have plenty of light — usually low ISO is fine. Higher ISO only for dark overcast conditions or if using fast shutters for falling snow.
Landscapes: f/8-11 for sharpness. Portraits: f/2.8-4 for subject separation. Falling snow: wider apertures blur flakes into soft bokeh; narrow shows each flake.
Falling snow: 1/500s+ freezes flakes as dots; 1/125s creates motion streaks. Static scenes: any speed with tripod. Sports: 1/1000s+ for action.
Pro Tips
Protect Batteries
Cold drains batteries fast. Keep spares in an inside pocket against your body. Rotate batteries — cold ones warm up and recover capacity.
Prevent Condensation
Coming inside causes condensation on cold gear. Put camera in plastic bag before entering warmth. Let it acclimate slowly in the bag.
Shoot in RAW
Snow white balance is tricky. RAW gives full flexibility to correct color casts and recover any highlight/shadow detail in post.
Look for Contrast
White on white can be boring. Find dark elements — trees, rocks, buildings, people in colored clothing — to contrast against the snow.
Use a Lens Hood
Prevents snow from landing on front element and flare from bright reflective snow. Keep a lens cloth handy for melted droplets.
Embrace Blue Hour
Snow glows beautifully during blue hour. The cool blue tones suit winter scenes perfectly. Golden hour adds warm contrast to cold snow.