Settings Breakdown
Long exposures are essential during blue hour. Start around 2-4 seconds early in blue hour, extending to 20-30 seconds as darkness increases.
Sharp apertures for cityscapes and landscapes. f/8-11 keeps buildings and foreground sharp while maintaining good light gathering.
Keep ISO low for clean images. With tripod and long exposures, there's no need for high ISO. Start at 100 and increase only if needed.
Autofocus struggles in low light. Switch to manual focus and use Live View with magnification to focus precisely on a distant light or building edge.
Blue hour occurs approximately 20-40 minutes after sunset (or before sunrise). The sweet spot is when sky brightness matches artificial light levels.
A sturdy tripod is non-negotiable. Multi-second exposures require absolute stability. Use remote release or 2-second timer to eliminate shake.
Pro Tips
The Balance Point
The magic moment is when sky brightness equals artificial light brightness. City lights glow warmly against cool blue skies without either overpowering.
Continuous Shooting
Keep shooting throughout blue hour — light changes every minute. What looks perfect on the LCD may be surpassed by the next frame as balance shifts.
Include Reflections
Water bodies amplify blue hour magic. Rivers, harbors, and wet streets reflect the blue sky and city lights, doubling the visual impact.
Scout in Daylight
Visit your location before blue hour to find the best angles and plan compositions. You won't have time to explore during the brief window.
Bracket Your Shots
Take multiple exposures for HDR blending. Building interiors are often much brighter than the sky — blending handles both.
Watch the Histogram
Your LCD will deceive you in the dark. Trust the histogram to evaluate exposure — it's the only reliable check in low light conditions.